Ascent of Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m)

Mountaineering

The advantages of climbing in the Tien Shan area: cheaper to climb than any other climbing area in Asia, for every type of climber there are possibilities to reach the summits, rather unspoilt nature, not (yet) overcrowded with climbers and easy to reach base-camps. Every year climbers find new routes to the peaks. In the ‘old days’ the strongest climbers of the former USSR made this their climbing paradise, in the new days professional climbers from all over the world flock in to make this area their new climbing spot.

One of highest peaks of the Central Tien Shan, with the shape of a pyramid, also called ‘the bloody mountain’, because of its red colour at sunset. Peak Khan-Tengri (‘Ruler of the Sky’) is situated next to peaks Petrovskogo, Gorkogo and Chapayeva and between these mountains lies the mighty Inylchek Glacier, a massive 60-km long ice glacier, with a width of 3,5 km. Climate in the region is cold and unpredictable; ascents to the peaks are difficult.

There are many ascending routes to peak Khan-Tengri, all categories of climbers can go, but most important is good health and good ice-rock technique.

Programme

Day 1-3: Our itinerary starts in Bishkek (or Almaty), transportation to Karakol, further to the base-camp in Mayda-Adyr.
Day 4: A helicopter brings us to the Inylchek base-camp. Acclimatization, preparation for the ascent, medical examination and route consultations
Day 5-6: The ascent starts by the classical route along the western ridge, along Semenovsky Glacier and up between Chapaev and Khan-Tengri crosspiece. Day 5: camp 1 (4300m), day 6: camp 2 (5800m).
Day 7: Up to reserve camp 3 (6400 m), acclimatization and study route, small ascents.
Day 8: Early start down the Semenovsky Glacier towards Inylchek Base Camp.
Day 9-11: Acclimatization. Preparation for the ascent, pack all necessary equipment (high-altitude food, tents), medical consultation, eat, drink & rest.
Day 12-13: Ascent to the crosspiece for camp 2 at 5800m (see day 6)
Day 14: Ascent to an altitude of 6700m (camp 4)
Day 15: The day for the Ascent of Peak Khan Tengri. After reaching the summit, descend to camp 3. Recommendation for this day is to hang up fixed security climbing ropes on the most dangerous places, to make a more secure descend possible and carefully go down.
Day 16: Descend to Inylchek Base Camp.
Day 17-18: spare days
Day 19-21: Helicopter flight to Mayda-Adyr, onward transport to Karakol and Bishkek/Almaty.

Scheme of track:

Total 14 days are necessary for the ascent, but in case of foul weather (snow, strong winds and avalanches), more time is needed. In total, our trip is 21 days, including preparation & rest days.

Season: July-August

Ascent of Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m)

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