Situated on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, this peak is one of the highest of the Zaalaisky range and one of the most accessible peaks in the world. This second highest peak of Kyrgyzstan is not a difficult peak to climb, but the weather and the altitude can be your major obstacle to reach the summit. The classical north route to the peak is along the snow highmountain plateau Skovorodka, the Razdelnaya summit (6148 m) and the west-side of Lenin Glacier.
||Our itinerary starts in Osh, transportation to the base-camp in Achik Tash (3600 m). First time for acclimatization, preparation for the ascent, medical examination and route consultations.
||Walk through the Lukovaia glade over the Puteshestvennikov Pass, traverse along the Lenin Glacier (5 km) to Camp 1.
||Ascent to Camp 2 to the snowy place, with the name ‘Skovorodka’ (5100 m).
||Ascent further along the edge, over the Razdelnaja summit (6148m) and make Camp 3.
||Descend to Camp 1.
||Descend to Base Camp near Achik Tash.
||Acclimatization. Preparation for the ascent, pack all necessary equipment (high-altitude food, tents), medical consultation, eat, drink & rest.
||Ascent to Camp 3.
||Further ascent along the Western ridge of Lenin Peak, between 6700-6900 m Camp 5.
||The day of the Ascent of Peak Lenin (7134 m), after reaching the summit descend careful to camp 4.
||Descend careful to Camp 1, many places on the Glacier have cracks in the ice and are dangerous.
||Return to Base Camp near Achik Tash.
||2 spare days in case of extreme bad weather (snow or rain, wind) or rest.
||Transportation by truck to Osh.
Only high-class experienced climbers, with good health and good ice-rock techniques can climb Peak Pobeda (‘Victory’).
Scheme of track:
Total 15 days are necessary for the ascent, but in case of foul weather (snow, strong winds and avalanches), more time is needed. In total, our trip is 20 days, 18 days for the ascent (2 spare days).